Japanese Tea Garden

An Echo of Eden in Golden Gate Park

Perhaps the most beautiful garden in all of California lies nestled amidst the tree covered park wrested out of the dunes of San Francisco over a hundred years ago. It is an expression of a garden spirituality that transcends our contemporary state of mind and explores the endless passages of Zen Buddhism as it is applied to Niwa, pure place, Japanese garden.

Built in 1893, this dream-like landscape lies nestled between the Strybing Arboretum and the De Young Museum in the heart of Golden Gate Park. Each season is a new experience beginning with the stark leafless trees and sculptured evergreens of winter. Early spring brings out the saucer magnolias combined with bright azaleas. These yield to the gorgeous display of cherry blossoms that rain their petals down upon the path ways in a floral blizzard unmatched in other garden settings. Then as nights cool in fall the Japanese maples bear their sunset shades of scarlet, creating stark contrast against the closely clipped and controlled shrubs.

There are three fundamental elements present in this garden and others modeled on those in Japan. These are connected to the harmony of the landscape created by the balance of yin and yang - opposing forces that govern the universe.

Stones are solid, "yang" of the garden. Their placement responds to strict rules of symbolism that relate to the size and shape of the stones themselves. They may represent mountains when stacked or islands when used as stepping stones over water.

Water is the "yin" that contrasts with stone, the ever changing source of life. As a reflection of nature, water courses are always part of these gardens, expressed symbolically by sand, or in real pools and streams. Its source should originate on the east side and flow west toward the sunset, thus cleansing evil spirits from the landscape.

Plants are often chosen for their longevity as age is deeply revered among the Japanese. Black pine is the most favored because it may be trained into beautiful forms and appears aged long before its time. Deciduous maple trees are the symbols of the cycle of life and death, as the leaves are born and die each year. It's a common practice in autumn to leave a few fallen leaves around stone water basins to remind visitors of the transience of human life. Cherry trees are Japanese symbols of spring and eternal youth, and in Golden Gate Park many visit this garden in April and May while the trees are in blossom.

Japanese gardens are inspired by the places of its origin - coastal valleys of the Japanese Islands, which are very much like those found along the rugged Mendocino Coast. Rocky, wind swept lands peopled by evergreens tortured into sculptural shapes that hardly seem the work of nature's hand. In such inhospitable conditions few soft, herbaceous plants live, and the gardens that evolved lack such species. Here in the tea garden these same qualities are reduced to barely an acre, which contains in miniature the entire environment, manicured to perfection.

The Japanese tea garden itself is the setting in which the art of the tea ceremony, chanoyu, is carried out in languid, measured motions. In Japan, such a garden would be created with careful forethought to guide the experience of the guest. After the first glimpse at the great covered gateway, the garden is gradually revealed with total control of the viewing experience.

As you wander down the paths of this garden, they cross the water bridge and up toward the tea pavilion. There to the right is a huge carved stone basin filled with fresh water. This is requisite in all tea gardens as it is a part of the ritual, the washing of hands to purify the body before entering the pavilion. Another element of the traditional tea garden are the little stone pagodas that fill the entire site. Although today they are ornaments their original purpose was to light the pathway from little fires kindled inside. These would then guide guests through to the tea houses after dark.

The tea house, or in this case a larger pavilion is called chashitsu. It is designed to be pure in form and natural in construction, without much ornamentation. It is a working tea room where you are served in the traditional way with lovely glazed ceramic cups. The tea ceremony involves the sipping of hot tea while conversing quietly and admiring the beauty of the surroundings. Here there a rock lined pool below with its own lovely waterfall is beauty enough, yet the rest of this garden is hauntingly beautiful and promises surprises at every turn of the path.

This rare public garden offers a taste of true Japan, with all the elements of the garden executed in exquisite detail. It is meticulously cared for and even when full of tourists it is still lovely and peaceful. Visit any time of year as the garden changes with the seasons, and discover the roots of this exquisite garden that presents man's best effort to recreate the perfection of nature.

Japanese Tea Garden - Golden Gate Park
Open daily 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM
Located on Hagiwara Tea Garden Drive beside the Asian Art Museum
(415) 752-1171
Don't miss Strybing Arboretum or the Conservatory of Flowers while in the park!